Dang, right?
And these are just waves on Lake Erie...
Hats off to surfers everywhere for engaging with water so intimately. It can be a mighty beast.
I just finished this beautifully wrought memoir. It reminded me of high school when I watched the waves on Ocean Beach for hours, subscribed to the Surfer's Journal, and quoted Caught Inside, but never dared to wade out into the water past my knees.
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